Welcome!

When I go on a trip, I like to come home with some photos, and I also keep a few notes - not a serious diary, but a reminder of what happens. I've recently combined these notes and photos into a blog, chronologically organized.

I hope everybody who reads the blog enjoys my photos and memories. I'm sure there are mistakes, but this is not a journalistic endeavour. Instead, it's my impressions. For photos, I've focused on things that interest me, and that aren't easily found on the Internet. As a result, you won't find too many photos of the castles and towns that we visited (just google Vierzehnheiligen or Kulbach, it's all there for the asking).

Hiking in Germany was a truly memorable experience, and I'd like to thank Thomas (and Fred) our leader(s) and my fellow hikers, who made it so special.

Happy Trails!

(P.S. The blog settings don't show the blog on Google or other search engines, but anybody who has the URL can read it.)

May 19-21: Hamburg

A trip to Germany would not complete without visits to family and friends, so we start our trip with an afternoon in Waibstadt near Heidelberg, then take the train to Hamburg where we will visit my sister and my friend Gabi.

It was great to see my sister and her partner (who, we found out, is now her fiancee!) and they were such gracious hosts. Because they knew we wanted to be active during our time in Hamburg, they had planned an outing to Travemuende, where we had breakfast and went for walk. We thoroughly enjoyed the delicious rolls, coffee, hot chocolate, and more. Then we strolled along the boardwalk for a bit, and had the good fortune of finding a hat for James (he'd left his at home).

Then, we started walking in earnest and covered the distance between Travemuende and Niendorf in record time. My sister's fiance is a serious hiker and has done a number of climbs as well, and he wasn't going to let us get off easy. Besides, we enjoyed the scenery, such as the Strandkoerbe.

A strandkorb is a big wicker chair with a roof that is used for hanging out in the summer. People rent one, and can then sit and read in the shade, leave stuff there, and in general have a little home away from home. For families with kids, it's great to have the kids get used to knowing where the parents are. Of course, with the weather being what it is, there wasn't much demand.

We had a photo taken in front of the strandkorb area - yes, it was a cold day.

The next day, my niece and her husband joined the group and we all went for a bike ride. Regrettably, not all of the bikes were really good fits, but it was a fairly nice day, and it's quite flat around Hamburg so it was perfect for biking. My sister's fiancee had planned an outing that led us through a natural area to a cafe that featured Spaghettieis - ice cream pressed through a pasta maker, smothered in strawberry or raspberry sauce, with white chocolate on top. It really looks a lot like spaghetti with marinara sauce and is quite tasty as well. Here's a picture from Wikimedia.

The bike ride was very enjoyable, with wildflowers and a special swampy area. We even heard some frogs. And it didn't rain until maybe 1 mile before we got back home. Who'd ask for more?
(Here we all are, my niece is taking the photo). 

May 21: Hamburg

For Tuesday, we had asked my good friend Gabi whether she could host us, and she managed to free up her busy schedule to spend time with us. It was so much fun to see her again - we went to the Gymnasium together, which is a long time ago. And she was so very welcoming that the visit was a special treat.

We got a group ticket for the public transportation for 10.50 - incredibly cheap - and took the bus and U-Bahn to be closer to the city center. A visit to the Isenmarkt was the perfect start to the day. It's an open air market under the S-Bahn line, with fruit, vegetables, cheeses, meats, and a few other fun things. We walked the length of the market and back, finding it hard to resist the many tempting choices.

From there, we walked (in a drizzle) to the Museum of Anthropologie (Voelkerkundemuseum) where we very much enjoyed the special exhibit on India minatures. I had seen so many sculptures during my trip in January, but had learned little about painting so I really enjoyed learning more about it. After fortifying ourselves with some hot drinks and some cake, we continued on foot along the Rotenbaumchaussee, a beautiful wide street where well-off Hamburg citizens have lived for centuries. I was struck by the Stolpersteine (stumbling stones) that I found everywhere. These are stones inserted in the pavement with names of jews who lived in the houses and died during Hitler's reign. It seemed such a great reminder, especially for young people who might not be so aware of how many people died.

In the city center, we saw the Rathaus (city hall) and visited the Handelskammer (chamber of commerce) which is also many centuries old and was an important meeting place for buyers and sellers from all over the world.

The Nikolaikirche is a church that was hit by bombs during the second world war and left in its partially destroyed state.

From there, we walked to the area of the harbor, where a lot of development is going on and the new apartments and shops are expensive. It was fun to look around, and to just walk for a bit though after a full day of rain, we were hoping the rest of our stay would be sunny. Little did we know...

The next morning we had a wonderful breakfast at Gabi's place and she drove us to the train station, where we boarded the ICE to Nuernberg.

May 22-24: Visit Nuernberg

After the very enjoyable time in Hamburg, we board the train to Nuernberg, our next stop, where we will spend some time with my brother-in-law and nephew. James is absorbed with the news, or his email, while I enjoy the comfortable ride in 1st class. We bought a ticket for 3 days of train travel for 2 people for a very reasonable price, and decided to splurge and go first class. The added advantage was that we were always able to get a seat, even without a reservation.

After a warm welcome by my brother-in-law, we set off together to shop for some provisions: chocolate, trail mix, and fruit. Thomas, the trip leader, has warned us that we won't be able to buy anything in the first few days. No stores in the small villages, and besides, it's Sunday. I also realize that the black leggings in my suitcase are not long underwear but cotton leggings, so we go to Woehrl and I manage to get a full long underwear outfit. It's 3 sizes to big but the price is right, and it's warmer than what I brought.

We take the opportunity to have my brother in law snap some pictures of us posing in front of the Ehekarussel, James' most favorite fountain (you can find information about this controversial piece of art on Wikipedia and elsewhere).

After we get home, James and my brother-in-law pose in his cabrio, but they only go for a short spin because it's rather cool and wet. Indeed, James is wearing his Schietwetter hat. Regardless, it's fun to watch how the little car unfolds itself. Several videos of it on Youtube, I'm told.

In the evening, we briefly meet with my nephew, who's on his way to an educational trip. He just started renting his own flat and he's very excited about it.

The next day, we go back for a pair of long underwear for James. He did not bring any because he's always hot, but the weather is starting to worry him and he splurges on an extra fancy pair of ski underwear - a wise investment, as it turns out. After fortifying ourselves at a nearby Starbucks, we go to the Museum of Design, which is an interesting building and one of my favorite museums in Nuernberg. I like to be reminded that it's not just about the old stuff, but about both the old stuff and the new stuff.

The free-standing stairs are quite a feat of design, and contrast with the old houses outside. 

I enjoy the colorful chairs.

There's also a movie about the production of felt chairs from recycled plastic bottles. It's quite fascinating how complicated the process is.

In the gift shop, I'm intrigued by James, the bookend.

May 25: Schloss Issigau to Culmitz

The big day has arrived: After months of preparation, fretting about gear, money, and other things we're gathered in front of Schloss Issigau where we spent the night. We've had an excellent breakfast and our luggage is in one room, waiting to be picked up. It's drizzling a bit, but nothing to worry about. The first day is a reasonable distance of, I believe, 12 miles.

We walk past picturesque meadows and forests, and also pass the former border to East Germany. It feels as if reunification happened so long ago. But I remember my mother sending parcels with coffee and chocolate to relatives and friends on the other side of the border. We received Stollen, a special Christmas bread, in return, but one can only eat so much Stollen. Worse than that were the restrictions on travel, nobody was allowed to leave East Germany, and I had to get a visa and exchange a fairly hefty amount of money for each day when I visited my cousin in Dresden.

But those times are past, and what remains is an unusually healthy forest in the former "dead zone" where nobody was allowed to enter.

After a few hours, we arrive at the start of the Hoellental. The name translates to "The valley of hell", but it might also translate as "The cave-like valley". Regardless, it's a great name.

The valley itself is quite picturesque, with a little river and beautiful flowers. Mixed forest of conifers and deciduous trees predominates. In a few places, fir forest, planted especially for harvest, interrupts the mixed forest areas. It's turned out that the monoculture of fir, which isn't even native here, is not sustainable. Different pests attack the trees, and the yield isn't great either.

We arrive in Culmitz in time for a shower, and go in search of apple strudel and coffee. Thus fortified, we can wash our socks and rest a bit before dinner. We eat and chat until 9pm, and I'm excited that the adventure has started in earnest.

May 26: Culmitz to Elbersreuth

Today is the day on which everybody is supremely happy about each piece of clothing they brought, and we're each wearing it all. James and I have consolidated our stuff into one backpack with one cover that's actually waterproof, and we're quite happy and dry in our waterproof gear.

Regrettably, we ascend to the highest point of our hike, the Doebraberg. Not impressive at about 2,600 feet, but even a few hundred meters make a difference in temperature, and we suddenly find ourselves in a mix of snow (!) and rain. After a short rest, we march on to continue the test of our wet weather gear. Most things hold up very well, and I'm glad that my core stays toasty warm. Hypothermia is a real danger on days like this, and our leader was prudent to send us ample warning that it might be cool and wet. Unfortunately, my gloves absorb the water like a sponge, and after a while I feel as if I'm wearing a glove made of ice water. But it's muddy and  slippery in many places, so I continue using my poles and can't keep my hands in my pockets. In some places, steep steps present their own challenge. But through it all, the birds are singing and it's really very beautiful.

We're glad to arrive at the Gasthof Bischofsmuehle, a well regarded and beautifully restored traditional place. We remove our wet stuff, while the German guests of the place look at us in some surprise. It seems odd to be out on a day like today. Well, actually, it is odd, but our reservations were made a long time ago, so there's nothing to do but walk. We warm up with hot chocolate and a big meal and are sorry to leave. But it's not so far any more, and we're keeping a good pace to keep warm.

When we arrive we're only a little bit tempted to hang our shoes up with the collection that's in front of the Gasthaus. And after a shower and a hot cup of tea, the world looks bright again, and we're all proud of ourselves for having braved the weather and arrived safely.

May 27: Elbersreuth to Zeyern

After an especially nice breakfast with Quark and Schoko-Muesli, we're on our way to Zeyern. Thomas tells us at breakfast that, after a rainy night, we should expect more rain throughout the day. He has called a small Gasthaus along the way, asking them to open for lunch so we can dry out and have a warm meal.

The forest is lush and green.

I'm thrilled to see cowslips, which were my youngest sister's favorite flower. They're blooming very late, it's been a cold and wet spring.

Never saw columbine in the forests where I grew up, but in this, somewhat wilder area, it can still be found. Almost all forests in Germany are managed, but some are more managed than others.

After a while, it stops raining for a bit, which makes for better views (I can't figure out how to keep my hood from limiting my field of vision). Then it starts again, and we're thrilled to arrive at our lunch destination. A not-so-young woman and her husband welcome us as if we're their long lost children. They take our wet jackets into a heating room, and she even offers to throw anything that needs it into the dryer. Then she takes our drink orders, and tells us that she's made a big pot of lentil stew with sausages just for us. She ladles out the first helping and leaves the pot. Everybody is very happy - and really, is it better to hike in the sunshine, or to enjoy such pleasures?

I actually save myself for what I see on the menu: Kaiserschmarrn with gooseberries. This is a dish I always loved as a child, pancakes cut into strips, refried, and covered with powdered sugar (see Wikipedia for the entertaining history of the dish). It does not disappoint, and I promise myself to finally learn how to make this myself.

Before I leave, I take a photo of James at the Renterbaenkla - the bench for the retired. Not yet, James!

The weather, regretably, does not improve, but we're now ready to face it again. Good thing we didn't have lunch at this picnic bench.

And the view isn't quite what the picture tells us either.

But we soldier on, it's kind of a meditative experience to walk, listen to the birds -- I don't miss TV, cars, and other trappings of civilization too much. Though I'm happy when we arrive at the Gasthof in Zeyern where we will stay overnight. They opened the place just for us, and we order our food soon after we arrive so the owner's uncle can start cooking. They've heated up a big tile oven and put out drying racks for the clothes. Soon we're all showered, in dry clothes, and with our drink of choice in front of us. And there's a chance of sun forecast for tomorrow.

May 28: Zeyern to Kronach

Big surprise: Sun is shining today. Everybody's positively giddy, and we enjoy the hike through forests and meadow. I take time to finally snap a photo of the lily of the valley, that I've so enjoyed seeing in the Frankenwald.

Also a photo of Schlehe (Prunus spinosa or blackthorn). They make a strong Schnaps and a delicious wine that is served hot or cold from the fruit, and it looks as if the pollinators get a chance today to do their job so the blue berries can ripen later in the summer.

And a field of raps, source of rapeseed oil which is used for biofuel. I was pretty amazed how many fields of raps we saw, even more in north Germany than in Franconia. One wonders what was not planted to make room for this crop - but these are difficult choices and it certainly looks more cheerful than a nuclear power plant.

We're moving from Catholic to Protestant villages and back to Catholic. While Upper Bavaria and Lower Bavaria is Catholic, Franconia is much more mixed. Nuernberg, for example, was Protestant - which meant Lutheran at the time. Bamberg was Catholic and had its own bishop and cathedral. When it comes to picturesque, the Catholics certainly win hands down...

Thomas planned a short day for today to give our legs a rest, so we arrive in Kronach around lunchtime. It's a very picturesque city, and we have some time to explore before we all meet at the Festung (fortress) for a very interesting tour in English.

It's fascination to hear about the arms race between better attack weapons and better fortifications, and sobering to learn about the many decades of rebuilding, when everything was immediately destroyed soon after.

After the tour, we have a little more time to explore the city - here a view toward the town square. 

Here a view in the other direction. These two pictures were actually taken the morning of Wednesday May 29, as the city crews were unloading small birch trees that will be put up to beautify the path of the host on the day of Corpus Christi. The procession always ends up back in the church after the host has been carried through the town, with services at different altars, usually in the four directions.

Where the altars are, the ground will be covered with flower petals, and little girls will have baskets of petals to beautify the path. But we'll miss all that, and will instead be on our way to our next destination.

Even the view from our (very nice) hotel is picturesque, and we spend a pleasant hour sitting in the sunshine with a cool drink and taking in the scene of lively Germans consuming large amounts of meat and beer (some wine as well).

May 29: Kronach to Kulmback

Today we sleep in a little and, after an especially nice breakfast, most of the group heads off toward the train station. After several days of hiking in rain, drizzle, or threat of rain, and with rain forecast for today, the train seems an attractive option. Besides, there's much to see in Kulmbach.

After we arrive, we make our way to the hotel and we're actually able to get our luggage and check in. Then we go to the castle together, past interesting old buildings and the produce market, up a hill overlooking the town. Thomas had believed that an audio guide in English was available for this castle, but the front desk staff is quite horrified by that idea - and they're quite vexed when they hear that English speakers have arrived. It's not possible to do the tour in both languages, but they'd be happy to let everybody in to explore on their own. Or be there for the tour and get a translation.

Soon the tour starts, and James and I attempt to convey some of the very detailed information to our fellow travellers. The tour guide is very entertaining and lively, mixing up the dry facts with what-if scenarios and making history relevant by relating it to our present lives. It's all about the Hohenzollern, a family of noblemen and -women who came originally from Svebia. Through advantageous marriages and diplomacy, they ended up with castles in Kulmbach and Prussia, and included William II, last emperor of Germany, who started the disastrous first world war.

Regardless, the castle was fascinating. We learned that it was originally painted everywhere. Today, only the sundial is being refreshed as needed.

Our guide had a few things to say about the Bavarian government, which is not very involved in maintenance of Franconian cultural heritage (and did we know that with Upper and Lower Bavaria, including Munich, havine 6 million inhabitants, Franconia has 4.5 million?) In half-jest, he mentioned that several of the German Bundeslaender together don't have as many inhabitants as Franconia, but did not go quite so far to suggest that Franconia secede.

The ornate fassade also included stone carvings of the Hohenzollern ancestors, and we were told, in confidence, that 31 of them were made up when the builders found they had more ancestor spots than ancestors.

And we all know what this little room is meant for -- I forget when it was added, but it reminded my of my grandmother's scary toilet on the second floor which went all the way down, a long way for a little girl to ponder.

When the tour was over (and after we'd looked at some of the other sights in the castle (such as the castle chapel), we were ready for some nourishment and made our way back down. We find a pleasant cafe with view of the market square and we each eat an excellent onion soup. James also has some very good cake, but i make do with some juice. Then we look at some stores, and I score a pair of fake crocs for 4.99 euros. This is a great purchase for both of us, James is a little tired of finding that his crocs are often out in the garden on my feet when he needs them. We also go by a shopping center, and I'm a little bit appalled how much cheap crap is for sale in Germany. I remember clothing that was good quality if a bit expensive, now everything is very cheap - and very cheap. There a few stores with things that my mother might wear that look well made, but I don't see the middle ground, fashionable clothes that will last more than 3 weeks and aren't so clearly based on the exploitative practices that caused the many deaths in Bangladesh just recently.

With no additional purchase (and nothing more to carry) we return to the hotel. The weather was wet all day, so we don't regret our decision to skip the hike. I do another round of laundry. It's become our daily routine, socks, (long) underwear, and maybe a T-shirt will dry easily overnight. Then I watch a very enjoyable movie about the staff at the zoo in Hamburg and read a bit. It feels like vacation!

May 30: Kulmbach to Weissmain

After the wonderful day of "rest" in Kulmbach, we're ready to walk again. Today is Fronleichnam (Corpus Christi), a holiday in Bavaria. We go past a Schrebergarten, a very German institution of small plots of land available for growing vegetables and flower and hanging out on the long summer evenings. Greenhouses are prominent, and some owners put up tiny cottages. A big sign of rules and regulations is posted at the entrance.

With so much regimentation, a bit of anarchy raises up -- there's a lot of graffiti, especially near the train tracks. Some of it is pretty ugly, some quite amusing. In general, it's mostly free expression, kids doing their thing, and nobody is much bothered by it. Well, people grumble, but it seems to have become part of the landscape (this little hut was about 8 feet high, so it was a job to paint it).

The day progresses with medium-good weather. Somehow, it doesn't seem to rain on Fronleichnam, at least in the morning. 

But it's clear that it has rained for several days, my "puddle picture" shows a field that is completely flooded (this is not a lake).

It's all kind of pretty in a way, but challenging for those who prefer to hike with dry feet.

After a while, we arrive at a former castle that is now owned by the Bavarian ministry of the environment.

They do measurements on nuclear contamination, but are also working on keeping their own environment suited for different critters by leaving the "weeds" to grow where they wish, as this placard explains.

In general, I'm impressed by the abundance of informational material we encounter on the trail. It's quite a shame it's only in German - but then, what an incentive to learn a second language!

One of the main points of the placard is that plants like to grow in the little crags in the walls, and that insects, then lizards, are sure to follow.

We continue walking, in sun and clouds, with a cuckoo singing a happy song. Then a second cuckoo joins. Romance blossoms. After 11 miles (or so) we arrive at the Gasthof Schoene Aussicht ("great view") and the do indeed have great views.

We're all very hungry, and the menu is extensive. I end up ordering a very good pizza and, after that, the most amazing raspberry-cheesecake. Best cake I've had in decades. All through the trip I was in the awkward situation of having to turn down the free dessert at dinner time -- included in the price of the trip -- because it was just too late. And at lunchtime beer was always plentiful, but desserts were sometimes harder to find.

The rest of the way delighted us with great views, we were starting to get to the Fraenkische Schweiz in earnest. High ridges were popular with hang gliders. With the beautiful surroundings, it's not hard to finish the last 5 miles and we arrive at the Gasthof "Alte Post", a place where the postal coaches used to stop and change horses.

Our room, while a bit dark, has a balcony and I enjoy looking down on the green roof next door. It's such a simple design, and with the weather being what it is here, irrigation is probably not an issue.

I also enjoy the fresh flowers in the entrance hall - altogether another great place (and yes, we're hungry again...)