May 26: Culmitz to Elbersreuth

Today is the day on which everybody is supremely happy about each piece of clothing they brought, and we're each wearing it all. James and I have consolidated our stuff into one backpack with one cover that's actually waterproof, and we're quite happy and dry in our waterproof gear.

Regrettably, we ascend to the highest point of our hike, the Doebraberg. Not impressive at about 2,600 feet, but even a few hundred meters make a difference in temperature, and we suddenly find ourselves in a mix of snow (!) and rain. After a short rest, we march on to continue the test of our wet weather gear. Most things hold up very well, and I'm glad that my core stays toasty warm. Hypothermia is a real danger on days like this, and our leader was prudent to send us ample warning that it might be cool and wet. Unfortunately, my gloves absorb the water like a sponge, and after a while I feel as if I'm wearing a glove made of ice water. But it's muddy and  slippery in many places, so I continue using my poles and can't keep my hands in my pockets. In some places, steep steps present their own challenge. But through it all, the birds are singing and it's really very beautiful.

We're glad to arrive at the Gasthof Bischofsmuehle, a well regarded and beautifully restored traditional place. We remove our wet stuff, while the German guests of the place look at us in some surprise. It seems odd to be out on a day like today. Well, actually, it is odd, but our reservations were made a long time ago, so there's nothing to do but walk. We warm up with hot chocolate and a big meal and are sorry to leave. But it's not so far any more, and we're keeping a good pace to keep warm.

When we arrive we're only a little bit tempted to hang our shoes up with the collection that's in front of the Gasthaus. And after a shower and a hot cup of tea, the world looks bright again, and we're all proud of ourselves for having braved the weather and arrived safely.