We learned the reason why half timbered houses were preferred to stone houses: It's cheaper. You can just stuff what you want between the timbers (Stones were required for the bottom floor, where fire was used). Nuernberg was 90% destroyed after the war, so not so many of the old houses remain standing, but the city was rebuilt to maintain its original character in part. Houses are flush with the street with the roof (not the gable) facing the street and 3 or 4 stories high. From above, the impression is medieval. From close by, it's clear many of the houses were built in the 50s.
We also learned the three types of decorations allowed for a house in Nuernberg: A sundial (or two), a saint or other figure, and a "Choerle" which translates to "little choir" and refers to the small extra room. This is called an Erker in the rest of Germany.
We also enjoyed learning more about Albrecht Duerer's life, which was fascinating in many ways. The sculpture below from a modern sculptor was close to our Hotel and is meant as an hommage to Duerer (the wine glass was left from the evening before, on a nice day the area near the Burg is quite the party place).
We spent a lot of time inside and around the castle and learned about the battles that the free city of Nuernberg had with their assigned duke, and how they outfoxed him until he finally left. Interestingly, the design of the castle, with a double set of walls, a dry moat, and corved entrance routes to prevent ramming of the door was never penetrated by an enemy (take that Lord of the Rings - good design trumps excessive bravery any day).
Our visit to the Sebaldus church was also interesting, in part because of the church's history of remodeling. I also enjoyed the tomb of St. Sebald, with its elaborate ironwork. While Nuernberg did end up becoming protestant during the reformation, they decided to keep the beautiful stained glass windows, saints, and other ornamentation in the churches (in contrast to many other cities, which ended up with bare and boring churches).
We have the afternoon off for shopping and have a nice dinner at a famous old restaurant that makes everything from scratch. Regrettably, their English menu is somewhat flawed, so 2 "lambs lettuce" salads turn out to be asparagus. The German speakers are crowded at one end of the table this time because Thomas' parents join us for dinner. We all enjoy our evening together and have a thank you card ready for Thomas which, fittingly, features Noah's arc.
On our last day, Klaus, my brother in law, drove us to Bamberg for a look around. We weren't able to get into the cathedral because it was booked for weddings 10 - 5. Go figure, it was June. Though who'd want to get married in a cathedral? We enjoyed the old houses along the river.
The large Residenz across from the cathedral.
The city gate with the ornate building next to it.
We were so sorry to leave - James to continue some European travel on business, me to head home to get back to work and to the garden. Even with the rain, it was a thoroughly enjoyable trip and I, for one, hope for another hiking or biking trip in Germany in the not too distant future.
