After the wonderful day of "rest" in Kulmbach, we're ready to walk again. Today is Fronleichnam (Corpus Christi), a holiday in Bavaria. We go past a Schrebergarten, a very German institution of small plots of land available for growing vegetables and flower and hanging out on the long summer evenings. Greenhouses are prominent, and some owners put up tiny cottages. A big sign of rules and regulations is posted at the entrance.
With so much regimentation, a bit of anarchy raises up -- there's a lot of graffiti, especially near the train tracks. Some of it is pretty ugly, some quite amusing. In general, it's mostly free expression, kids doing their thing, and nobody is much bothered by it. Well, people grumble, but it seems to have become part of the landscape (this little hut was about 8 feet high, so it was a job to paint it).
The day progresses with medium-good weather. Somehow, it doesn't seem to rain on Fronleichnam, at least in the morning.
But it's clear that it has rained for several days, my "puddle picture" shows a field that is completely flooded (this is not a lake).
It's all kind of pretty in a way, but challenging for those who prefer to hike with dry feet.
After a while, we arrive at a former castle that is now owned by the Bavarian ministry of the environment.
They do measurements on nuclear contamination, but are also working on keeping their own environment suited for different critters by leaving the "weeds" to grow where they wish, as this placard explains.
In general, I'm impressed by the abundance of informational material we encounter on the trail. It's quite a shame it's only in German - but then, what an incentive to learn a second language!
One of the main points of the placard is that plants like to grow in the little crags in the walls, and that insects, then lizards, are sure to follow.
We continue walking, in sun and clouds, with a cuckoo singing a happy song. Then a second cuckoo joins. Romance blossoms. After 11 miles (or so) we arrive at the Gasthof Schoene Aussicht ("great view") and the do indeed have great views.
We're all very hungry, and the menu is extensive. I end up ordering a very good pizza and, after that, the most amazing raspberry-cheesecake. Best cake I've had in decades. All through the trip I was in the awkward situation of having to turn down the free dessert at dinner time -- included in the price of the trip -- because it was just too late. And at lunchtime beer was always plentiful, but desserts were sometimes harder to find.
The rest of the way delighted us with great views, we were starting to get to the Fraenkische Schweiz in earnest. High ridges were popular with hang gliders. With the beautiful surroundings, it's not hard to finish the last 5 miles and we arrive at the Gasthof "Alte Post", a place where the postal coaches used to stop and change horses.
Our room, while a bit dark, has a balcony and I enjoy looking down on the green roof next door. It's such a simple design, and with the weather being what it is here, irrigation is probably not an issue.
I also enjoy the fresh flowers in the entrance hall - altogether another great place (and yes, we're hungry again...)
